Walking and shopping at Hanoi’s old quarter

The city enjoyed many names, from Dong Kinh during the later Le Dynasty (1428-1787), which became corrupted by Europeans, to Tonquin and later adopted during the French colonial period (1883-1945), as Tonkin to refer to the entire region. It received its present name, Ha Noi, or Between Two Rivers, in 1831 as renamed by the Nguyen Dynasty.

Walking around the Old Quarter may be daunting at first because of the ubiquity of motorcycles darting from every possible direction as you traverse the streets. The trick is to just walk at your regular pace with confidence and let them avoid you. When you get used to their rhythm and having them around, you can concentrate on admiring the engaging mix of Imperial landmarks, French colonial architecture, Buddhist, Taoist, and Catholic sites; and, of course, the many objects of desire to bring home—showcasing Asian and European heritage as well as indigenous ethnic cultures.

Evolving from a cluster of villages with houses on stilts that were unified by the Chinese into the Protectorate of Annam, the Old Quarter became known as a crafts area in the 11th century when the imperial kingdom attracted skilled craftsmen to provide their services.

Workshop villages around the palace walls evolved into guilds that numbered to 36, giving this area the name of “36 Old Streets,” which refers to the guild streets among the more than 70 streets. The crafts gave the names to the streets, so most streets start with Hang or “wares.”

Many streets still specialize in what they were named after, although there is already a mix of merchandise. Hang Bac, or Street of Silver, is one of the few that has preserved some of its traditional business with small shops selling jewelry as well as silver-casting handicrafts. Hang Duong, or Street of Sugar, has also maintained shops with sweet snacks. 

Hang Quat, the street of Fans, has switched to temple offerings and paraphernalia, from hand-carved wooden pedestals to decorative lotus lamps. Hang Non, the Street of Hats, has traditional Vietnamese musical instruments. Hang Dao where dyed silk and fabric were traded now has merchants who have switched to RTW.

Dong Xuan houses the oldest and biggest market in the city, Dong Xuan Market, selling almost everything from food to fabric, handicrafts and souvenirs. Nearby is Hang Tre, where bamboo poles and rafts were made, and still has a few bamboo craftsmen left. Hang Ma is one of the most colorful, selling lanterns and decorations for various celebrations.

Hang Gai is Silk Street showcasing Vietnamese crafts. Exquisite lacquer work applied to decorative boxes, vases, minaudieres, handbags, and even furniture and home accessories can be found in shops like Tammy Design, which also has silk garments including the ao dai, Vietnam’s national dress. Further down the road at Hadong Silk are embroidered ao dais in silk velvet. There are also many shops along the way specializing in linens that are painstakingly hand-embroidered. If you want to go bespoke, there are establishments that can do ensembles in 24 hours, from gowns to tuxedos.

The many side streets are worth exploring for crafts and antiques. If you turn left on Ly Quoc Su going towards St. Joseph’s Cathedral then turn right on Chan Cam, you’ll find House of Vintage Jewelry for some brooches and other baubles. Across it is Zimoi for agarwood with its haunting fragrance made into sculptures, jewelry, accessories, and incense.

Going back to Ly Quoc Su past the cathedral are boutiques and shops that have both the traditional handicrafts of ethnic groups as well as contemporary takes on the artisanal, as seen at Collective Memories. Just as they have repurposed their ancient buildings for the needs of today, the Vietnamese have also reimagined their traditional crafts for the modern era.

There are too many places to mention but the best way is to just follow your instincts like a true traveler and be amazed at new discoveries that come your way. Hanoi is the perfect place to just get lost and find many wonders.