French classics
MILLIE: A trip to Paris will not be complete without a visit to its famous churches, but since the Cathedrale de Notre-Dame de Paris was closed and under going restoration due to a fire three years ago, our first stop the first day was the Madeleine Church at the Place de la Madeleine where we took shelter due to a hail storm.
On our second day, since it was a Sunday, we visited the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal in Rue du Bac, which houses the incorruptible remains of Saint Catherine Laboure. It is my favorite and must-go-to chapel whenever I am in Paris because my birthday falls on Our Lady’s feast day. We purchased some relics to bring home to friends and family.
We also dropped in next door at the Grande Epicerie de Paris to check out an amazing display of everything French to eat! I got my stash of marron glacées and was very happy! We were lucky to have fine weather so we tried our luck at Le Relais de l’Entrecote at No. 20 Rue San Benoit. It’s one of the most popular restaurants in Paris and, although we had tried it before in Geneva, we just wanted to experience it all over again. We came before the noontime rush but found there was already a long queue; but since the weather was most pleasant, the wait didn’t seem uncomfortable.
KARLA: The menu for Le Relais de l’Entrecote was created by Paul Gineste de Saurs and has been around since 1959 for a brasserie called Le Relais de Venise-Son Entrecote at the porte Maillot in Paris. It was his daughter, Marie-Paule, who expanded, conceptualized and executed the brand we know today as Le Relais de l’Entrecote, guided by her father’s love for good quality food. Le Relais de l’Entrecote has three branches in Paris—Rue San Benoit, Rue Marbeuf, Boulevard du Montparnasse—and two in Switzerland located in Geneva and Zurich.
The restaurant serves just a single menu of green salad with walnuts, followed by an extra-tender sirloin steak in a secret blend of butter sauce with pommes allumettes or French fries. Upon seating, the server immediately asks what you would like to drink and how you would like your steak done. Quick and efficient, which is why even if there is a line outside, diners don’t end up waiting too long. It is not the place you can sit down and stay for chit-chat, since it’s very tight and busy.
MILLIE: After lunch we were headed towards the Louvre and the Jardin des Tuileries to take souvenir photos, profiting from the nice, cool and sunny weather. We strolled along Rue de Rivoli and wanted to have hot chocolate at the famous Angelina’s but the queue was longer than a queue at Disneyland so we decided to walk around Paris.
For dinner we went to a 77-year-old restaurant, one of the best restaurants in Paris called Au Pied de Cochon at No. 6 Rue Coquillière. It is located in the area called Les Halles, which used to be the central fresh food market until it was replaced by a grand underground shopping center. We failed to make a reservation but the restaurant was big enough to accommodate two hungry foodies just the same.
KARLA: I ordered the ravioli dauphine, which was a spinach ravioli in cream sauce topped with cheese and baked. Mom had the classic soupe a l’oignon to start with followed by a traditional sole meuniere for her entree. As for me, I decided to try the house specialty, which was the pied de cochon, or “pig’s trotter.” It was slightly cured and then breaded and baked in the oven. This was served with hollandaise on the side, which made it such a rich dish. The pied de cochon was gelatinous and fork tender. I couldn’t help but think of how my lolo Joe would have absolutely loved this dish and how he would have asked me to try and recreate it if he were still around.
MILLIE: Service was elegant and impeccable and the maitre d’hotel was both charming and accommodating. Such delightful care and attention to top off French classics!