Urban eats vs. coastal treats: The Madrid and Galicia food face-off
Señoritas y caballeros, foodies and flavor fanatics, welcome to a culinary showdown that could only end in a resounding ¡Olé! In the yellow-red corner, hailing from the bustling capital, we have Madrid cuisine: a heavyweight champ known for its hearty portions and urban flair. In the white-blue corner, from the misty, green coasts of the northwest, we present Galician cooking: a seasoned veteran with a salty tang and rustic charm. Let’s dig in and see who takes home the crown!
Round 1: Starters
Forget about tapas, which you can find in any modern metropolis. These little dishes—like croquetas, patatas bravas, and chorizo al vino—have the power to turn a casual bar outing into a gourmet adventure. But for a starter that’s a meal in itself, get yourself a tortilla de patata, from Casa Dani if you can, right in the heart of the world-famous Mercado de la Paz in Madrid. In the Americas, a tortilla is a round, thin, flat bread made from unleavened cornmeal, wheat flour, or even agave. But in the Iberian Peninsula, tortilla de patata is a potato omelet, with or without onions. I’d add ham and cheese to the mix when I try it at home. It’s a delectable dish, and it packs quite a punch.
Galicia counters with pulpo a la gallega, octopus so tender it practically melts in your mouth, served on a wooden plate with a sprinkle of paprika, sea salt, and a dash of olive oil. You’ll find it everywhere in the region, but Pulperia a Garnacha in Melide—halfway between Palas del Rei and Arzúa—serves one of the best versions of this traditional favorite. It’s a dish that says, “I’m simple but sensational.” Take that, tapas y tortillas!
Round 2: Mains
Madrid’s signature paella enters the ring: a steaming pan of sticky rice prepared with saffron, assorted seafood, chickpeas, meat, and vegetables. It’s the culinary equivalent of a warm hug from a Spanish abuela. Like the tortilla, it’s a rich and filling meal by and in itself. They even sell it in portions in some cafeterias.
Galicia hits back with an unstoppable combo: caldo gallego, a hearty soup packed with greens, potatoes, chorizo, and pork; empanada gallega, a savory pie stuffed with tuna, cod, octopus, or meat (I had the empanada artesana gallega de pulpo, every bite a taste of heaven); and tournedó de cerdo ibérico (Iberian pork tournedó), tender grilled pork sprinkled with sea salt and whatever secret spice they have, complemented by baby potatoes and sweet green peppers (¡muy delicioso!). These dishes just scream comfort food, like a cozy evening by the Atlantic waves.
Round 3: Seafood
Madrid, being landlocked, might seem at a disadvantage here, but then it brings out bacalao gratinado con all i oli dulce sobre pimientos a la llama (whew!), which is grilled cod gratin with sweet aioli on flame peppers. This fine dish I tried with my niece and her boyfriend in the heart of the city—at the tourist hub Plaza de Mayor—is a must-try. Note: It’s a small serving, so don’t share. Not bad, Madrid, not bad at all.
However, Galicia is the Muhammad Ali of seafood, floating like a butterfly, stinging like a bee with its vieiras (scallops) baked in their shells, and it’s a seafood lover’s dream come true. I asked if they used butter in my dish. “Sin mantequilla, Señor. Solo aceite de oliva.” Thanks to four years of high school Spanish plus 12 units in college, lo entendí completamente. Their EVOO is, of course, prime stuff, though some garlic would’ve been perfect for my Pinoy palate. Scallops are, of course, one of the symbols of the Camino de Santiago. Pilgrims and infidels alike could be flogged for not trying it at least once in Galicia.
Round 4: Sweets
Aside from turrón (a nougat confection that is every denture wearer’s nightmare) and violetas (violet-flavored and shaped candies), Madrid still manages to land a one-two combination with churros con chocolate. Normally served at any time of the day in countless churrerias, three to five pieces of churros (or two to three pieces of porras, jumbo churros, only lighter) should be enough to wipe out the entire contents of a cup of the thickest chocolate concoction you will find on the planet. You can spell it “decadence.”
Galicia unleashes the knockout punch with tarta de Santiago, an almond cake dusted with powdered sugar and emblazoned with the cross of St. James. It’s rich, it’s flavorful, and it has a history as deep as the Camino de Santiago itself. Lo siento señor, pero los churros con chocolate tienen mi voto. (I’m sorry, sir, but the churros and chocolate get my vote). That’s one way to pick a fight in Galicia.
The verdict
In the end, it’s not about who wins or loses; it’s about the feast along the way. Madrid’s cuisine is a vibrant mix of influences, perfect for those who love variety and urban sophistication. Galicia’s cooking, on the other hand, is a love letter to the sea and the land, ideal for those who appreciate the raw, unadulterated flavors of nature.
Whether you’re sipping on a vermouth in Madrid or savoring a plate of pulpo in Galicia, you’re in for a treat. Because in this delicious duel, the real winner is you, the lucky eater. Bon appétit, or as they say in Spain, ¡buen provecho!