Fashion on the fringe

In the Roman world, fringes did not seem to be everyday clothing for the common folk, according to Dr. Kelly Olson, professor of Classics at Western University Canada. Julius Caesar was described as being dressed cultu notabilem or remarkably, in a broad-striped tunic with fringed, wrist-length sleeves. An account by Ammianus Marcellinus in the 4th century describes Romans riding coaches “higher than common,” wearing ambitioso vestium cultu, or ostentatious finery of apparel, sweating with heavy cloaks that they lifted with both hands and waved with many gestures so that the overlong fringes could be conspicuous.

Olson cites sources that “imply that fringes were inappropriate fashion for men probably because of their Near Eastern (that is, “effeminate”) origin; for the Romans, certain races were naturally mollis, or soft. Or perhaps the Romans did not favor fringes because certain religious groups (such as the Jewish people) did.”

What appears to be a puzzle, however, is that fringes are still seen in depictions of Roman military wear and ritual wear. Olson thinks that the fringe was in some way apotropaic to guard the wearer against accidents and the Evil Eye. Just like the tinkling tintinnabula in houses and the bouncing phallic amulets, the fringe’s movement could distract demons and evil vibrations, making it a necessity for leaders, military officers and priests. Of course, the elite used it, too, despite its encumbrances, since they did not engage in manual labor.

With Native Americans, fringe is both decorative and practical, helping the wearer to repel rainwater drops, which would travel down the tassels and away from the body. It was also a form of sustainability since it was common practice not to trim seams as this was considered wasteful.

Waste was of no concern, of course, in the 1920s, which is considered the Golden Age of Fringe when dresses were loose, cut from luxurious fabrics and finished off with fringes. Designers Madeline Vionnet and Charles Worth were the pioneers of fringed fashion, with the former famous for her bold floral print accented with long, sweeping fringe and the latter creating silvery tinsel dresses. The Charleston dress, named after the dance, was particularly popular for parties because it was completely covered in the tiered threads that would shake along with the wearer and sometimes reveal a flash of leg.

In the 1950s, it took on a more rebellious edge in the leather motorcycle jackets and gloves of Hell’s Angels bikers and in Elvis Presley’s signature look. It was also a fashionable trim for screen divas like Rita Hayworth, who wore a stunningly sequined, fringed gown in 1952.

Designers in the ’60s and ’70s referenced Native American and African styles in adopting the fringe. Yves Saint Laurent’s 1967 collection was inspired by the Bambara of West Africa, while celebrities like Cher wore fringed dresses and jackets in suede, offsetting gypsy dresses and hippy tie-dyed tees.

In the 1980s, Giorgio Armani, Azzedine Alaïa and Christian Lacroix championed the tassel in their collections. Tina Turner wore a memorable beaded fringed dress created for her by Alaïa. Jean Paul Gaultier even made glasses with fringes.

For this season, designers explored the whole range of fringe possibilities, in flouncy pieces that are designed to move, from ball gowns with hems of shredded straw to woven gowns covered in cheerful pompoms.

At Prada, they came grommet-punched in skirts and embellished with metallic strips in belts looking like party-curtain décor. This was part of the craftsmanship-forward approach manifested in novel fabrications that can also be seen at Alexander McQueen and Bottega Veneta.

An irreverent glamour pervades these new fringed creations, just like in the debut Gucci collection of Sabato de Sarno, whose coats sprouting shimmering crystal fringing was inspired by the streets of his native Italy: “A story of richness and lust, of sweat, dancing and singing.”

With fringe still going strong for FW 2024, the story definitely continues and the post-pandemic partying has certainly just begun.