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A creative’s voice in shaping its industry

By ESME PALAGANAS, The Philippine STAR Published Jul 28, 2024 5:00 am

The most vivid memory from when I was 8 years old was going on campaigns for then-Senator Joker Arroyo with my sister. These early experiences shaped me as a voter, showing me that there is always something I can contribute—whether it's participating or, at the very least, keeping tabs on those we vote for and trust with power.

This sense of responsibility never left me even as I pursued a creative and entrepreneurial career. Business Support Organizations (BSOs) like the prestigious Council of Fashion Designers of America and the British Fashion Council have shown that change can be for the better. These BSOs have cultivated designers like Proenza Schouler, Alexander McQueen, and Martine Rose, and supported local manufacturing industries, transforming them into globally competitive landscapes. So as opportunities came, this value and belief led me to the work I’ve done since 2018 to this year as I conclude my tenure as part of these industry organizations. 

Though challenging, there is an untapped power in a united front for fashion futures to be crafted through organizations. But can it fit in the Filipino context? 

The Philippine Creative Industries Development Council—talking about it again and again

I’ve written articles on the Philippine Creative Industries Development Act solely based on the personal and unique experience of witnessing participatory government in the Philippines' creative context. The bill's passage into law demonstrated how organizations and their voices shape a bigger picture through participatory government. 

Participatory government is a democracy where citizens actively participate in decision-making and shaping public policies, which was evident in this law's passage. Legislators took the time to understand the industry they were helping, and the private sector provided their voices through hours of discussions.

Participatory governance is a democracy where citizens actively participate in decision-making and shaping public policies.

Before the creative industries consultations, the initial bill allowed only two private seats out of 10 on the Creative Industries Development Council. This was insufficient for effective decision-making. Voices from 10 creative domains and over 20 industries in the Philippines insisted on more private seats to ensure comprehensive planning for this billion-dollar sector.

In the fashion sector, we had to ensure accuracy across various fields, a challenge given the scarce and inaccessible data, highlighting the need for organized sectors. However, with the willingness of private sector participants like ArteFino, weavers in Aklan, designers like Gabbie Sarenas, editor Pam Quinones, and social entrepreneurs Noreen Bautista and Mike Claparols, the organization provided a comprehensive picture of the industry during five days of hearings in the House of Representatives and Senate.

This is an honest truth we need to face: Posting on social media can only do so much. Active participation and work are needed if one's voice, collective or individual, is to be heard.

The challenge to organizations for industry change

Organizing large groups of people with diverse perspectives is one thing; continuing the work beyond what the government asks from you (such as soliciting perspectives) is another. This is the reality of running an industry organization that is supposed to speak for a group of people, let alone an entire industry.

Amina Aranaz-Alunan, former Fashion and Design Council of the Philippines (FDCP) President, Board Advisor to the Philippine Fashion Coalition, Co-Founder of SoFA Design Institute, and creative behind Aranaz, is well-acquainted with the active work needed in shaping an industry. She believes that BSOs can definitely make an impact if they are structured and funded properly. “The main struggle is funding so that it can operate effectively. It needs a full-time team that can push for its mandate and agenda. A BSO may not be effective if there is no full-time manager/team because focus, time, and resources will be split.”

Though challenging, there is an untapped power in a united front for fashion futures to be crafted through organizations.

At the end of the day, initiatives are powered by people’s effort, brainpower, and time, and this might not come for free. Organizations have existed for years with fixed programs year in and year out; the possibility is there, and if others have done it, it’s not far off for those who attempt it.

Maco Custodio, current Secretary of the FDCP, active member of Fashion Accessories Makers of the Philippines, educator, and design consultant for government-led projects, highlights the power of organizations in amplifying the voices of designers, manufacturers, and suppliers, many of whom are not large corporations. He emphasizes that a unified voice not only strengthens the network but also enhances the impact of industry changes that the government can act upon.

But one caveat in organizing a unified voice is the question of whether we have enough voices at the table. A designer, when asked about an organization's function and trustworthiness, mentions that it can only be impactful once they start immersing themselves in the industry at different levels and sectors, instead of focusing on just one. “Otherwise, it will just be a bubble supporting themselves and can feel performative. How can you address a problem or help the industry if all the members belong to the same pool?” Looking across categories, ages, genders, and business sizes can help provide diverse perspectives and solutions. Opening up the organizations can definitely help, “Kasi magkakaroon ng voice ‘yung iba na hindi napapansin dahil maliit sila.”

During Aranaz’s tenure as FDCP President, one of the key impactful actions was when they let in contemporary designers such as Gabbie Sarenas and Zarah Juan (and yours truly), which empowered both designers and the organization alike through building a supportive community.

Call to action

By leveraging their creativity within BSOs, designers can confront industry truths, set aside personal biases, and co-create solutions for everyone's benefit. The journey is challenging, especially with the tension between creativity and structure, but with a hopeful view of organizations, it is possible.

Many changes aren't visible on social media because they require hard work, such as changing a line in law to include private voices in decision-making. With participative government now accessible, it's time to seize this opportunity beyond our cynicism in government systems. Despite personal challenges, even a single voice or action can make a significant difference.

Michelle Obama said it best in her podcast about young people’s perceptions towards government: "I think too many young people question whether voting or politics is worth it. It's because they have been told that the government doesn’t work. The danger for this generation is that they become too deeply cynical about the government, not understanding that the government is us collectively making decisions together."

In my guest lecture at University College London, students were impressed by how active industry participation shaped the Philippine Creative Industries Development Bill. This demonstrated a unique global example of effective collaboration. The Act has already allocated a budget to hire top talent for the Creative Council and funded roadmapping initiatives, from fashion to gaming, and discussions on AI's impact on the industry. Our participation has spurred many visible and invisible changes, with more to come.

When asked about change, Obama said, “It’s not an easy trajectory. That’s how change happens. It’s not one continuous arc; it’s up and down, it’s circular.” As we hope, whine, pray, and post about the changes we want in our industry, let me challenge you to be the change you want to see in the world through participation. 

Ask the question, “If not now, when? If not you, who?” Further, if not your voice, whose?