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Ang Pasig ay Mutya

Published Jan 23, 2024 5:00 am

Mutya ng Pasig, a time-honored kundiman composed by Nicanor Abelardoin 1926 and popularized by Conching Rosal, is a melodious plea from a maiden (mutya) pining for love and glory long gone.

To the romantic as well as the pragmatic, these haunting but prescient lines breathed by the muse of the Pasig may well still be her serenade today. On second thought, the river itself is the muse, Metro Manila’s muse, because its 26-kilometer stretch links 11 of its cities and is behind the rise of many of them, notably the capital, Manila. Trade and commerce flourished along the banks, transportation was eased. Jose Rizal immortalized the Pasig River in many crucial scenes in the 19th-century Noli Me Tangere and El Filibusterismo. 

Fireworks over the Pasig River, Metro Manila’s muse

During the Philippines’ Gilded Age, palatial homes were built on the banks of the Pasig, like the Ocampo mansion in Quiapo (think the schloss of the Von Trapps in Sound of Music), and the Arcache mansion in Sta. Ana. Alas, it started to deteriorate in the early 20th century, and was declared “biologically dead” in the 1990s.

A pity because many beautiful cities in the world are nestled beside rivers that also are primary tourist attractions: Paris, London, Prague, Budapest, Bangkok, Singapore, to name a few. The revitalization of the once murky Singapore River may have inspired Filipinos to resurrect the Pasig, which has also been called the “Grand Canal of Manila,” just like the Grand Canal of Venice. 

The showcase area behind the Manila Post Office

Past administrations and cause-oriented groups, national and local, have attempted to get the Pasig River flowing and they have steadily, but not completely, accomplished the herculean undertaking. But there has been success in beautifying landmarks by the Pasig. The Jones Bridge is like a glittering tiara over the Pasig at night, after having undergone a stunning restoration a few years ago, with lampposts similar to those on the Alexander Bridge in Paris.

Last week, President Marcos and First Lady Liza Araneta-Marcos led the well-attended inauguration of the showcase area of the Pasig River urban development project in Manila, spanning almost 500 meters behind the Manila Central Post Office.

President and Mrs. Marcos with (from left) Human Settlements and Urban Development Secretary Jerry Acuzar, DILG Secretary Benhur Abalos, and MMDA chairman Atty. Romando Artes

Dubbed as the “Pasig Bigyang Buhay Muli” (PBBM), the project aims to transform Pasig River into a center of economic activity and tourism, and transportation connectivity in Metro Manila and adjacent provinces. It is part of the initial phase of the comprehensive, multi-agency urban renewal project spearheaded by Human Settlements and Urban Development Secretary Jose Rizalino Acuzar. Acuzar is known for his preservation of historic homes and enclaves.

The newly constructed showcase area will serve as a public park consisting of a pedestrian-friendly walkway on a concrete platform equipped with water fountain accented by lighting, and sitting areas that can also serve as an open-air venue for events. 

I was invited to the inauguration of the showcase area, and found it truly representative of Filipino colonial architecture with its lampposts, curvy balusters and winding esplanades. Very romantic. I was happy to note that the Pasig River, at least behind the Post Office, no longer smelled like an unbathed muse.

The showcase area is highlighted by a transition bridge under the Jones Bridge that will ensure seamless connectivity from Manila Bay’s north harbor to Laguna de Bay.

Transportation Secretary Jaime Bautista and Sen. Loren Legarda

Recreational and wellness amenities such as public parks and jogging and bike paths will also be constructed in key areas along the 26-kilometer stretch of the river.

The government envisions Pasig River to play a significant role in economic development activities in the metropolis just like waterways in other major cities in the world. The master plan includes the relocation of informal settler families who currently reside along river banks. 

Kevin Tan and Lance Gokongwei

“We already have the all-out support of the President and the First Lady. With the dedication of the inter-agency council and financial help from donors in the private sector, we hope to transform the First Couple’s vision into reality, restore the beauty of the Pasig River and transform it into a prominent landmark for tourism and economic activity,” Acuzar said.

Em Aglipay-Villar, Sen. Mark Villar and Budget Secretary Mina Pangandaman

Jose Rizal himself would be pleased to see the dawning of the Pasig as he saw it. He wrote in a play, Along the Pasig (Junto al Pasig):

“Pretty Pasig, pretty river,
Wear your best bouquets,
Happy morning, dawning, give her
All our brightest rays.
Clear and cloudless skies above her,
Pink with dawn her cheek,
All who see her now must love her
All who beauty seek.”