First ladies: The style and grace of diplomacy
World leaders, whether consciously or not, have First Ladies as partners in presenting their country to the global community. What she chooses to wear and how she comports herself says a lot—it’s an invaluable first impression that may make or break an official visit.
Liza Araneta Marcos knows this well enough to have a wardrobe that showcases the uniqueness of our culture and artistry, as well as modernity. For the coronation of King Charles III in London, she wore an embroidered Marian blue terno by Paul Cabral that made headlines—she was featured as one of the best-dressed guests, as reported by The Telegraph. It had all the right elements: It was the national dress that evolved through centuries, reflecting history and heritage; its design and impeccable execution are testaments to the Filipino’s skill in the arts and crafts; and it embodies the modern spirit of embracing our traditions with a contemporary twist for the woman of today.
It is this spirit that she has been championing in her projects like Likha, which brings together weaves and crafts from all over the Philippines for forums where designers and the public can rediscover and update them for today’s lifestyle, making them more sustainable. It’s one of her many endeavors that link heritage, tourism, and trade.
Her mother-in-law, former First Lady Imelda Marcos, also wielded the power of the terno in her trips abroad, as she wore elegant creations by designers of her time: Christian Espiritu, Pitoy Moreno, and Joe Salazar, who would also feature in the Bagong Anyo shows that pushed Philippine design, art and culture to the fore. The Cultural Center is her enduring contribution as patron of the arts, together with other buildings like the Folk Arts Theater, Philippine International Convention Center, Philippine Heart Center, and the Lung Center of the Philippines.
Previous First Ladies had their share of the most beautiful ternos, some done by National Artists: Leonila D. Garcia, who was active in cultural activities and aligned with her husband’s Filipino First policy, had exquisite pieces from Salvacion Lim Higgins. Luz Magsaysay, who engaged in civic and charity work in her characteristic, low-key style, wore Ramon Valera’s masterpieces.
In Asia, Madame Nguyen Cao Ky of Vietnam and Dewi Sukarno of Indonesia were famous for their beauty and style, promoting the ao dai and kebaya, respectively, which their countries were known for.
The term “First Lady” actually originated from the US, where its early use was for a high ranking or outstanding person in her field before it referred to the spouse of the President in 1838. From then on, the person referred to as First Lady became the subject of scrutiny by a relentless public that watched her every move and noted everything she wore.
The most famous was Jacqueline Kennedy, wife of President John F. Kennedy, who became the icon for elegance and refinement, as everyone followed her wardrobe staples of streamlined pastel ensembles, pillbox hats, Chanel suits, white Capri pants, Gucci tote bags (one even named after her) and oversized sunglasses. She loved French fashion but made an effort to wear American designers like Oleg Cassini. She still got flak for “spending so much money on clothes.” She told WWD once, “I couldn’t have spent that much money unless I wore sable underwear.”
Outside fashion, she is actually responsible for restoring the White House, supporting the arts and historical preservation. In a tragic turn in 1963, when her husband was assassinated in Dallas, she was able to show the world what she was made of: hours after the President was shot beside her, she decided to face the public in the same blood-stained pink dress worn during the attack, famously telling her staff: “I want them to see what they’ve done to Jack.”
Coming from Hollywood as an actress together with her actor husband, Nancy Reagan knew how to put on the glitz and glamour, which was evident at the inauguration Ball in 1981 when 700 private jets flew in and her gown—a white beaded, one-shouldered sheath of lace over silk satin by James Galanos—was a showstopper. Her signature hue was dubbed “Reagan Red” and led many to believe that’s why it’s the official color of the Republican party. She was criticized for being “too concerned with frills and the finer things in life” when the country was plunging into a recession, but stayed relevant by working on her advocacies, like educating young people on drugs through the “Just Say No” campaign.
Being the first Black First Lady, Michelle Obama knew she’d be criticized “if perceived as being too showy and high-end, and also if too casual.” So, she mixed it up: “I match a high-end Michael Kors skirt with a T-shirt from Gap, Target one day and Diane Von Furstenberg the next,” aside from celebrating young, diverse designers like Jason Wu and Prabal Gurung. She used all the attention she got to push poverty awareness, education, exercise and nutrition.
In the capital of fashion, Former First Lady Carla Bruni Sarkozy and current First Lady Brigitte Macron are the two most publicized. The former, a model and singer, was compared to Jackie Kennedy during her early days at the Elysée Palace, with her modest suits and sheath dresses from Dior, the brand she also wore on her first visit to the UK—a politically correct choice since John Galliano, the designer of Dior then, was a Brit. Her evening gowns were just as understated in neutral colors that were impeccably cut.
Brigitte, on the other hand, experiments more with color and ornamentation with her Louis Vuitton pieces and staple Chanels. She may have received criticism for her relationship with Macron, who was her pupil and was as young as her children, but she has faced this with resolve and her being 25 years older may even have some appeal for the French, who have always admired alluring mature female figures who have wit and intelligence. A poll from Paris Match gave her a 67% favorable response from the public, which appreciates her working on the integration of persons with disabilities, child protection and training of youth for vocations and employment.
Not all First Ladies remained so during their husbands’ terms. Margaret Trudeau, 29 years younger than Pierre Trudeau, Prime Minister of Canada in the ’70s and ’80s, was a “flower child” and “party girl” who was often seen at Studio 54 during its heyday when she wore sequined catsuits. The marriage did not last but produced a political heir in Justin, who became Prime Minister in 2015. Like father, like son—Justin’s wife, Sophie, is also headstrong and independent like his mother, opting for a separation last year and concentrating on the promotion of her new book while coming out in fashion magazines.
A First Lady who died at a very young age and achieved mystical status is Eva Perón of Argentina. An underprivileged, illegitimate child who became an actress, she was unpopular with the elite but won the hearts of the masses with her foundation that catered to their needs. She hired the best couturiers who had to make separate designs for her so as not to alienate their affluent clientele. She later ordered couture from Dior and Jacques Fath, saying “The poor like to see me beautiful. They don’t want their protector in an old, ill-fitting dress. They dream about me, and I cannot disappoint them.”
They did more than that, practically worshipping her after Congress bestowed her with the title, “Spiritual Leader of the Nation.” When she died from cancer in 1952 at the age of 33, state funeral and memorial services went on for 16 days, with 3 million people waiting in 15-hour lines and flower shops running out of flowers, which were overflowing from every street.
